At nest Robe and CONFECT, linen has always been at the center of our garment making. Derived from the flax plant, linen changes its character depending on where it is grown and how it is processed. For us, the beauty of linen lies not only in the material itself, but also in the process behind it. By looking closely at the production background of the fabric—the environment, the techniques, and the subtle differences created through each step—we explore new possibilities for expression through clothing.

To extract linen fibers, harvested flax must first undergo a fermentation process known as retting. During this stage, microorganisms break down the plant structure, gradually separating the fibers from the stem. This process plays a crucial role in determining the character of the linen. There are different retting methods depending on the region and environment. Some flax is laid out in fields and exposed to dew and rain, allowing fermentation to occur naturally. Others are submerged in water, where microorganisms work through immersion. These differences in process create subtle variations not only in texture, but also in the natural color of the fiber.

Patterns do not always have to be created through dyeing. By combining yarns with slightly different natural tones, it is possible to express patterns that originate from the material itself. Rather than adding color artificially, we focus on revealing the inherent beauty found in linen. The Retting Stripe is created without dye.